Chris Anderson - Earth Train Panama
Week 3

Heraclitus and his Wisdom

The Greek philosopher Heraclitus once said, “the only constant is change” and if I had to pick one quote to describe this past week in it’s entirety, nothing would do it more justice.  At the end of last week, I was completely and unquestionably ready to start training my nascent powers of scientific observation.  Armed with books about ants and drawing, along with an old hand lens and a moldy sun hat (everything here molds within seconds of exposure to open air), I was prepared to boldly venture forth into the dark and steamy jungles to observe, record, and draw.  Alas, it was not to be, as Heraclitus was once again proven correct.

It had been the plan to originally leave on Tuesday to Panama City for the Fourth of July celebration that the American Society of Panama was sponsoring.  We were then to  leave on the fifth and immediately start a kayaking trip down the Mamuni River.  Instead, it was decided that we should leave on Monday for a river house that Nathan and his wife Zita own in a little town by the name of San Miguel.  After a week of work it was great to have a day of rest in San Miguel, swimming in the fast moving waters of the nearby river.  The Isthmus of Panama is only about 3 million years old, which in geologic time, is no more than an eye blink.  Evidence of this age abound, especially in the rivers.  Great, grey protrusions of igneous granite that were thrust up as the Pacific Plate slid underneath the Caribbean Plate are visible everywhere.  They make great locations for jumping into deep water.

The calm of the river house was not to last long, as the next day we headed for the heat and bustle of Panama City where we were first introduced to Dan McGuirk. Dan is our  kayaking master anad he who would be guiding us on the kayaking trip.  The next day was largely uneventful as we slowly cooked within Casa Arias while waiting for the Fourth of July festivities to begin.  We soon  piled into colorful, Jesus motif-ed taxis to the “art show” that preceded the barbeque and fireworks.  The reason that I put “art show” into parentheses is because the American Society of Panama stretched the term to its limit to describe the advertisements to which we were subjected.   Imagine if you can, entering a conference room of a fancy hotel, everything around you reeks of sophistication.  You’re certain that everyone is looking at you with derision for wearing a bright purple 1993 Van Halen t-shirt along with a grey pair of exercise shorts. This was really all I had that was clean.  As the doors open, you are greeting to the sight of several new and gleaming Harley Davidson’s lined in the middle of a room lined with long white tables.  Business-like women stand behind the tables, each waiting to tell you about the advantages of their airline or car rental service.  Almost as an afterthought, a collection of colorful clay plates and pots are placed in a corner with their artist. It is then that you realize that you have reached a level of Dante’s Inferno. This hot spot is surely only reserved for the most heinous of sinners, beyond even honor, bound Brutus, and sad Judas.  But I digress, perhaps I am over exaggerating, the Delta Airlines table had perhaps the best tasting chocolates I’ve ever eaten. That made it all worth it. After the “art show” the barbeque and fireworks show was something you might expect anywhere in America, full of hot-dogs, hamburgers and loud music.  I had a good time and left the party somewhat earlier, as several of my fellow program members should have.

The next day, as soon as several hangovers subsided, we started back to San Miguel, which was to be the beginning of our kayak trip.  Heraclitus decided differently, however, and it was decided that we were going to hike to the village of Mamuni Arriba, a village close to the headwaters of the Mamuni River to help build relations with locals in the valley. This would take two days before beginning the kayak trip.  The hike to Mamuni Arriba was relatively short and somewhat brutal with much uphill labor involved.  We arrived on Friday afternoon and prepared to stay there throughout the end of Saturday.  Heraclitus had yet more to say.  Once we all discovered how incredibly boring it was in the village, we agreed to begin the kayak trip on Saturday instead.

Saturday was the perfect day to start the kayaking trip.  It had rained the entire previous night and the river was running high and fast.  This meant that we were far less likely to be hung up on rocks in shallow water, but also meant that the few rapids were a little bit trickier to navigate.  The rapids were mostly benign though. Even those like me, who have never kayaked before, were able to get through without much trouble.  The entire river trip was phenomenal, if somewhat tiring.  While descending to Centro Modrono we were treated to wonderful scenery.  We found ourselves parallel with huge, monolithic granite protrusions one minute and then seconds later a new vista of ancient trees would open up revealing a distant and majestic cloud forest.  The area we traveled through was truly breathtaking.

            The week ended with a day of much needed rest and recuperation.  I’m sitting back in a place that is already beginning to feel a little like home,  typing away while I prepare for a week that will be full of work and observation.  I’ve pulled out my books and moldy hat again, and Heraclitus permitting, it will be a week of dirty, yet rewarding ant observation.